This was an 8-10 mile out and back hike where permit is needed for overnight camping/backpacking. About one mile before the Sunrise Entrance to Mount Rainier, you will find a parking lot on both side of the road. If on the weekend, expect it to basically be full. It probably holds about 30 cars. Didn't see any fee requirements and didn't get a ticket. As you come to the parking lot, the trailhead is on the left. The trail takes you through classic PNW forest with minimal views. The elevation increase is essentially constant with switchbacks much of the way. Moss covers the ground and hangs from the trees. You will get a few limited views of Rainier as you make your way up. About half way, you can choose to either go to the peak or continue on to the lower and upper lakes. The trail is wide, clear, and relatively easy. We got our permit (the last one) for overnight at the Sunrise entrance day of. We were hoping for a different hike but the permits were all taken. Our permit was for the upper lake (One of only two!). Once you arrive at Upper Crystal lake, you have an amazing view especially if you make your way up the ridge. The lake is pristine and beautiful surrounded by sparse cascade fir trees (?). There is a simple path that goes around the lake. There is an open toilet and a bear pole although I'm pretty sure a bear could just push over the pole to get to your food. No bear sightings. We saw a few deer, lots of birds whizzing through the trees, and didn't look like there were fish in the lake. The campsite was decent, enough for three tents if needed, no campfires or dogs allowed.
On the opposite end of the lake, there is a subtle trails not marked on maps that connects you to the PCT. called Sourdough Pass. I strongly suggest taking this as it provides the best view of Rainier and the lake below. It is a smaller trail, but clear and easy to hike.
We stayed one night. The night was very chilly with sporadic rain. The night was extremely silent, no insects or amphibians calling out.
Generally, I would say this would be a good day hike if you are looking for something easy to get to and don't want to pay the park entrance fee.